I'm getting ready to install a Challenger E10 in my garage and had the following questions regarding the concrete wedge anchors:

1) Do to my tile floor, I am using 1/2" steel plates as shims. Therefore, I will have to obtain longer bolts. The Challenger supplied anchor bolts are 3/4 x 5 1/2" "Relia Bolt wedge anchors" P/N . I can't find any specs for them! I was thinking of replacing them with Hilti anchors. Any idea what model of their 3/4" wedge anchors would be a suitable replacement? Hilti Kwick Bolt TZ?

2) When installing wedge anchors, they have a spec for minimum embedment, but what should one aim for? As low as possible to the bottom edge of the concrete? Or should the wedge be placed higher in the slab (while still respecting the minimum embedment distance from the top of the slab?

3) Finally, I have seem some threads on here about installation torque. Any suggestions/tips to avoid concrete damage that some have experienced during anchor installation?

Thanks! what does the lift manufacturer say about setting this on a tile floor? Normally you dont put anything like this on tile because it doesnt have the same compression strength as concrete
If it were me I would scribe out the footprint of the towers and carefully cut the tile out with a mini grinder. Hilti makes a very good product,dont scrimp here and go by manufacturers installation instructions.A local Hilti rep should be able to steer you right on this.

It will be on top of 1/2" thick steel plate shims (which match the lift footprint). The shims purpose is to compensate for the thickness of the tile!

Seriously, you had ½” steel plates made just to compensate for tile thickness?

Makes no sense, the flange on that lift should be thicker than a piece of tile anyway.

I must be missing the point here because I don’t fully understand the need for the spacer, cant just be because of tile… C96,
Yes, the base of the lift is thicker than the tile. However, as pattenp mentioned, I don't want to have issues with the tile interfering with the lift arms (I started a thread discussing that issue earlier). Additionally, the Challenger manual stipulates that no more than 1/2" of shimming is allowable using the factory included shims. If I just used their shims, I would exceed that limitation clearing the tiles and wouldn't have any slack left to level the posts (sloping floor). When I called Challenger, they said I could use the steel plates as shims, but would need longer anchor bolts to ensure adequate embedment depth into the slab. Overkill? Maybe, but I would rather over engineer it than have a problem down the road!
WS Usually the shims are used to level the columns. If 1/2" is the max amount you can shim the lift and you have the lift sitting on a 1/2" shim, how are you going to level the columns without putting in additional shims. I would re-check with the manufacturer to make sure this is OK.

When you drill the floor some reccomend to drill through the floor completely. That way you can drive the anchor bolt into the dirt beneath the floor when removing the lift for good, or if you have to replace a bad anchor.


Chris

Usually the shims are used to level the columns. If 1/2" is the max amount you can shim the lift and you have the lift sitting on a 1/2" shim, how are you going to level the columns without putting in additional shims. I would re-check with the manufacturer to make sure this is OK.

When you drill the floor some reccomend to drill through the floor completely. That way you can drive the anchor bolt into the dirt beneath the floor when removing the lift for good, or if you have to replace a bad anchor.


Chris

The lift company told him he cannot shim more than 1/2" with individual shims or c shaped bolt shims
He is cutting an exact colum base out of 1/2 steel and placing it under it for spacing. He can then individually shim between the 1/2 and base for leveling
He's doing it fine, and if you bothered to read above he explained it

The lift company told him he cannot shim more than 1/2" with individual shims or c shaped bolt shims
He is cutting an exact colum base out of 1/2 steel and placing it under it for spacing. He can then individually shim between the 1/2 and base for leveling
He's doing it fine, and if you bothered to read above he explained it

I did read every post, including post 11. The factory said he could use a half inch plate to shim, they didn't say anything on adding more shims to level after adding the 1/2" shim. Where do you see that? That is why I said he should RE-check with the manufacturer to see if this is OK.

Chris

Here is post 11

C96,
Yes, the base of the lift is thicker than the tile. However, as pattenp mentioned, I don't want to have issues with the tile interfering with the lift arms (I started a thread discussing that issue earlier). Additionally, the Challenger manual stipulates that no more than 1/2" of shimming is allowable using the factory included shims. If I just used their shims, I would exceed that limitation clearing the tiles and wouldn't have any slack left to level the posts (sloping floor). When I called Challenger, they said I could use the steel plates as shims, but would need longer anchor bolts to ensure adequate embedment depth into the slab. Overkill? Maybe, but I would rather over engineer it than have a problem down the road!
WS

I bought my anchors from fastenal. Should be able to a longer anchor without any problem. I drilled down dropped em and cranked to torque spec. Something like 250 lb ft. Go through the slab. I got a box of red heads reasonable from them. Rent a big ass SDS for a couple hours and make your life 100x easier.

Good grief, 250ft lbs. 150ft lbs is most I've seen lift anchors to be torqued for setting.

The ones on my Mohawk are torqued to 75 ft-lb. Here is a link see the bottom for torque values.http://www.mohawklifts.com/library/manuals/Slab_Require_Recommend_11_07.pdf

Use the installation instructions for whatever anchor you use.

I was also told to retorque the nuts after one month, 6 months, and once a year during the annual inspection(did mine today)
chris Wow! Thanks for all of the replies... I didn't mean to cause too much commotion! Here is the latest update:

Yes, ZK's interpretation is correct. Challenger only limits the amount one can shim to 1/2" because the included anchors are only 5 1/2" long. Additionally, the included horseshoe shaped shims are only meant for leveling, not height adjustment. I was advised by Challenger that I could compensate for the tile height by making a steel shim or raising that section of the floor with hydraulic cement - I chose the steel shim because it seemed less prone to error. The only problem with the shims is that one needs longer anchors to obtain the minimum embedment in the slab! I called Hilti today and they recommended their Kwik Bolt 3 (KB3) 3/4 x 8" - the next length up from 5 1/2". They also stated that setting the bottom of bolt close to the bottom of the slab was not an issue as long as the minimum embedment depth was achieved. I'll update when I get into the install!
WS

C96,
Yes, the base of the lift is thicker than the tile. However, as pattenp mentioned, I don't want to have issues with the tile interfering with the lift arms (I started a thread discussing that issue earlier). Additionally, the Challenger manual stipulates that no more than 1/2" of shimming is allowable using the factory included shims. If I just used their shims, I would exceed that limitation clearing the tiles and wouldn't have any slack left to level the posts (sloping floor). When I called Challenger, they said I could use the steel plates as shims, but would need longer anchor bolts to ensure adequate embedment depth into the slab. Overkill? Maybe, but I would rather over engineer it than have a problem down the road!
WS

Couldn’t you just put stops on the lift arms in order to keep them from hitting the tile instead of having to raise the entire lift?

The Ultimate Guide to Choosing the Right Anchor Bolt Manufacturer for Your Construction Needs

When it comes to construction, the strength and stability of a structure depend heavily on the quality of its foundational components. Among these, anchor bolts play a critical role in ensuring that structures remain secure and durable over time. Whether you’re working on a skyscraper, a bridge, or a residential building, selecting the right anchor bolt manufacturer is a decision that can make or break your project. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll explore everything you need to know about anchor bolts, the qualities of a reliable manufacturer, and how to make an informed choice that ensures the success of your construction endeavors.

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Author

Meet Sachin, our expert author in industrial materials with a deep understanding of stainless steel shims, bolts, and shim washers. With years of experience, Sachin brings valuable insights and expertise to this guide, making her a trusted source for all things related to washers. Join us as we delve into the art of crafting washers with Sachin leading the way.

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