Edge Jointing With A Handplane - Panel Glue Up - GS Haydon

I allow extra length and width over and above the finished panel size. This gives me lots of wriggle room and makes the job of joining much less stressful. As a rule of thumb add and extra 2" in length and 1/2" in width.

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Take a look at your boards, pick the best faces and match them as well as possible so the grain compliments the final panel. You can skip that if the project is painted! Some people like to alternate the radiating growth rings for reasons of stability. Nothing wrong in that at all but I normally go for the look of the panel and find that this works well for me. Once you have your boards as you want them add a face mark and some reference marks that you can use to bring you back to the right spot during the glue up. I used marker pen to add clarity for the video, a chunky soft carpenters pencil is my normal choice.

This is the key step of shooting edges easily. Pick up the boards folding them outwards so the face marks are on the outside then secure them in the vice, just like the video. I like to use a handplane for shooting the boards. Don't let that put you off, It's really not that bad and the reason is down to how I set the boards int he vice. By securing the boards with the face edges facing out, if the edge is planed a little out of square it makes no difference as the edges compliment each other and stay dead flat when they meet up. For short boards a short plane will work, something like a #5 (this is the plane I use in the video and the plane shown in the front of the picture). Longer edges are more easily done with longer planes.

I set my plane coarse to start so I can remove stock quickly and get the edges close to what I need. A sharp handplane is essential, but if you follow the link that can be easy too :-). When planing the edges try to hollow the the boards in their length. By starting and finishing the plane strokes within the length of the timber this naturally happens. By doing this you will avoid making a hill which is not helpful. By having a slight hollow extra pressure is put on the ends of the joint during clamping which is an added bonus. For the final final step set the plane very fine and take some full length shavings. Remove the boards from the vice and offer them up laying flat on the bench. Don't try and cheat yourself, these need to go together with light pressure, if it's not right repeat the process again.

If you're working on long boards you might want to add biscuits. These help you align the boards and are like an extra pair of hands if you work alone. Don't add too many, just a few to help you line up the boards. Also if you do use biscuits make sure you keep them in far enough from the ends. If they end up to close to the ends you risk exposing them when you trim the panel to length as shown in the photo below. Biscuit jointers are really great for this job. Alternatively you can add dowels or tongues to the edges of the boards instead.

Next comes the glue. Do not be in a rush at this point! Also if you're gluing a few boards together don't get greedy, do your glue up in stages.

Do the boring stuff get everything you need ready, clamps ready and set at the correct width, have your work area clean and tidy. The glue you choose is up to you. I'm using Titebond original for no other reason than I was given a sample pot and I can confirm it works well. There are many many adhesives to choose from. Take advice from a reputable supplier to make sure you have the best adhesive for the job in hand and you are aware of any safety issues. Some adhesives can be very toxic so do your research. Other adhesives may vary in their application, this method works fine for Titebond original glue.

I apply a generous bead of glue to the centre of one of the boards as you can see above. Bring the edges together on the claps and give them a rub, gently forcing them together and getting them into position to meet the reference marks. This rubbing creates a suction between the joint and holds the board steady while you cramp. If you wish you can spread your glue with a brush or a spatula and apply to both edges. However the photo below is of the joint I rubbed, I pulled it apart so you could see the glue evenly covers both sides. Pay attention to the ends of the boards when applying glue and make sure the ends get a nice even coat too.

Edge banding is the unsung hero of modern furniture and cabinetry. While often overlooked, it is the detail that transforms exposed core material such as particleboard or MDF into sleek, durable, and professional-looking surfaces. Whether you're a designer, contractor, DIY enthusiast, or manufacturer, knowing the type of edge banding you need is essential for creating beautiful, long-lasting laminate projects. This comprehensive guide covers everything you need to know about edge banding—what it is, why it matters, how to choose the right type, and how to achieve flawless results for every laminate brand.

What Is Edge Banding?

Edge banding is a thin strip of material applied to the exposed edges of laminate panels, such as particleboard, MDF, or plywood. Its primary role is to seal and protect raw edges, preventing moisture intrusion, chipping, and wear. Beyond protection, Edge banding delivers a seamless finished look that matches or complements the laminate surface, elevating the overall appearance of the furniture or cabinet.

History of Edge Banding

Edge banding emerged alongside engineered wood in the last century. As furniture makers sought ways to improve the durability and aesthetics of new materials, edge banding became the go-to solution for finishing exposed edges.

Why Edge Banding Matters for Laminate Projects

Durability and Protection

Laminate surfaces are prone to chipping, swelling, and damage at the edges. Edge banding acts as a protection, preventing moisture and impact from compromising the core material. This is especially crucial in kitchens, bathrooms, and high-traffic commercial areas.

Enhanced Aesthetics

A well-matched edge banding creates a seamless transition between the top surface and the sides, delivering a polished, professional appearance. With the right color and texture, the edge becomes almost invisible.

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Safety and Comfort

Exposed laminate edges can be sharp and rough. Edge banding smooths these surfaces, making the furniture safer and more comfortable to us.

Types of Edge Banding Materials

Choosing the right edge banding material is important for both function and style. Here are the most common edge banding types:

PVC Edge Banding

• Pros: Highly durable, moisture-resistant, and available in a vast range of colors and finishes.
• Best for: Kitchens, bathrooms, and commercial furniture.

ABS Edge Banding

• Pros: Eco-friendly, recyclable, and similar in performance to PVC.
• Best for: Projects prioritizing sustainability.

Wood Veneer Edge Banding

• Pros: Made from natural wood, it can be stained and finished to match custom surfaces.
• Best for: High-end furniture, cabinetry, and visible surfaces.

Melamine Edge Banding

• Pros: Cost-effective, easy to apply, and available in many patterns.
• Best for: Budget projects and quick renovations.

Tip: Compare the pros and cons of each material based on your project's durability, appearance, and budget needs.

Edge Banding Compatibility with Laminate Brands

Not all laminates are created equal, and neither is edge banding. Achieving flawless finish means matching your edge banding to the specific laminate brand, same color, and finish.

Matching Edge Banding

At LEDGEBAND, we stock edge banding matches for all laminate brands in PVC and ABS material as well as metal and wood veneer tape in various sizes and thicknesses.

Custom Edge Banding

If you have a unique color laminate, we offer custom edge banding to meet your specifications.

How to Choose the Right Edge Banding

We make the process easy on our website. Selecting the right edge banding is simple: just navigate to our edge banding menu, select the laminate brand you're looking for (e.g., Formica edge banding, Wilsonart edge banding), or type the laminate name into our search bar, choose the correct size, thickness and finish that best compliments your laminate.

Application and Installation Methods

Applying edge banding is straightforward with the right tools and techniques:

Most Common Application Methods

• Iron-On: Pre-glued edge banding activated by heat is ideal for DIYers.
• Hot Air or Laser: Professional-grade methods for seamless, zero-joint finishes.
• Glue Application: Using EVA adhesive, used for thicker or specialty edge banding and required edge banding machine.

Edge Banding Installation Overview

1. Prepare the Surface: Clean and sand the edge for best adhesion.
2. Cut Edge Banding: Measure and trim to slightly longer than the edge.
3. Apply Banding: Use the chosen method (iron, hot air, glue) to bond the strip.
4. Trim Excess: Use a sharp blade or trimmer for a clean finish.
5. Finish Edges: Sand lightly for smoothness and durability.

Pro Tip: Always follow the manufacturer's instructions for best results and longevity

Troubleshooting and Maintenance

Even the best edge banding can encounter issues. Here's how to keep your edges flawless:

• Peeling or Bubbling: Reapply heat or adhesive and press firmly.
• Chipping: Use a touch-up marker or replace the damaged section.
• Cleaning: Wipe with soft, avoid harsh chemicals.

Regular maintenance ensures your edge banding stays beautiful and functional for years.

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Edge Banding Supplier